Whose dance is it anyway? The show that asks you to guess the choreographer

What kind of value judgments and viewing habits do we bring to the theatre when we are watching a new piece of dance? It’s a question posed by Dance Umbrella and CCN-Ballet de Lorraine in their new, joint production, Unknown Pleasures. By presenting an evening of five new works, whose choreography, design, lighting and music all remain anonymous, they are inviting audiences to look at the stage with their senses rinsed clean of all preconceptions – and all PR.

It’s a bold and engaging experiment, challenging the roles that reputation, context, gender and age play in our evaluation of dance. But much as I enjoyed the novelty of the concept (and the freedom of arriving at the theatre without making any advance preparation), I didn’t find that the experience made me a more innocent viewer.

The five works in Unknown Pleasures are presented as one, near seamless performance, but with the first item divided into short sections that function as hinges between the four longer pieces. The movement in Anonymous #1 (my title) is a study in fragmented, frozen gesture and its dancers have a slightly lost air, as if unsure whether or not they are actively performing. They drift across the space, they place themselves precariously on the front edge of the stage, as if hoping to merge themselves with the audience. And while #1 adds a smart sliver of the conceptual to the programme, as a framing device it is perhaps too distancing, too self-conscious, for a show already fraught with questions.

The other works are admirably diverse in style. Best of the four is #2, a pure minimalist piece for 17 dancers whose elegantly repeating walks, turns and glides accumulate into grids, circles, and progressively mesmeric kaleidoscopic patterns. These patterns form and reform with such tantalising rapidity that we cannot see whether the letters printed on the dancers’ T-shirts are meant to make any sense; only at the end do the cast order themselves into a line in which the words “The world is burning but I keep on turning” become clearly legible. The drollery of it, combined with the musicality of the phrasing and the exquisite control of structure, all suggest the imprint of Lucinda Childs – if not the choreographer herself then a talented disciple.

Unknown Pleasures by Dance Umbrella and CCN – Ballet de Lorraine.
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Unknown Pleasures by Dance Umbrella and CCN – Ballet de Lorraine. Photograph: Tristram Kenton for the Guardian

Piece #3 is about three couples, who seem to be locked together in a language of gluey, febrile body contact. At moments they break apart, as one or other dancer makes a swerving break for freedom, yet some dark force of emotional gravity keeps dragging them back to the confines of the duet. I suspect that if this work were longer and revealed more about each couple I might have rated it more highly. At 15 minutes, however, it doesn’t transcend the very generic nature of its ingredients – the dysfunctional-looking relationships, the moody lighting and electronic score.

The dance clock is turned back a couple of decades in #4, where dancers in retro-gold Lycra and black tights perform choreography that looks like an homage to Merce Cunningham. The stiff-legged footwork, the tight little clusters and rushes of energy are pure Merce, although the movement is also invaded by a different, less disciplined voice. It’s one that shakes the dancers into looser, blurrier lines, sends them toppling off balance and disrupts the symmetry of the floor patterns – almost as though the anonymous choreographer were having his or her own argument with Cunningham’s legacy.

Unknown Pleasures by Dance Umbrella and CCN – Ballet de Lorraine at Sadler’s Wells, London
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Unknown Pleasures by Dance Umbrella and CCN–Ballet de Lorraine. Photograph: Tristram Kenton for the Guardian

Unknown Pleasures closes in grandstanding style with a setting of Ravel’s Boléro. As 11 dancers criss-cross the stage to the insistent, orgiastic swell of the music, the blatancy of their pelvis-thrusting demeanour, their swagger and strut feel like a parody of the classic Béjart version of the same score. But there is also a strange, vivid torque to parts of the choreography that make it more animalistic than human, with the dancers springing across the stage on their hands and knees, or with their arms angled above their heads like antlers. The work also springs a sweet and funny surprise as the central couple, who first emerge from the group like jousting animals on heat, end up sitting cosily together on the edge of the stage, two quietly domesticated lovers.

Overall it’s a good evening of dance – and #2 and #5 are both works I would particularly like to see again. But while I was watching Unknown Pleasures I found the question of context and authorship a nagging distraction, which at times got between me and the stage. Perhaps the critic’s part of my brain doesn’t know how to shut up. But as a species we are wired to be puzzle solvers; given the conversations I had with other people, and the conversations I overheard, I wasn’t alone in finding the evening as much of a quiz as a liberation. The programme will go on international tour and at the end of its run, I’d be happy to see it return to Umbrella – but this time with the name credits inserted. It’s not that I’m desperate to know how well I scored at Guess the Choreographer, but I would be able to absorb myself far more completely with the works themselves if I wasn’t bothering about their provenance.

Marc Jacobs to Close London Store

As other extravagance brands move their concentration far from discount and scale up their direct-to-shopper channels, BoF has discovered that Marc Jacobs is set to close its final London store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. Other European retail stations are to take after, numerous sources said. The points of interest of which different stores will be shut are not yet known, in spite of the fact that the LVMH-possessed design house at present works retail locations in Denmark, Italy, Norway and Luxembourg, as indicated by its site. The Paris area on Rue Saint Honoré will stay open, as indicated by sources comfortable with the business. A representative for LVMH declined to remark on this story.

While Marc Jacobs will keep up a physical nearness in London through its discount associations with multi-mark retailers including Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, the Mount Street shutting is representative for the area. The region’s change from Mayfair backwater to extravagance ground zero, home to top brands like Céline and Balenciaga, was commenced by the opening of Marc Jacobs in 2007.

The new terminations are the most recent in a string for the Marc Jacobs mark, which has, in the course of recent years, close down the majority of its Marc by Marc Jacobs stores, and in addition some fundamental line Marc Jacobs areas. At introduce, Marc Jacobs’ retail organize comprises of four Marc Jacobs stores, one Bookmarc book shop and four outlet stores in the US, and additionally global stores and outlets in nations including Japan, Malaysia and China.

The streamlining is a piece of a bigger rebuilding at the brand, which has persevered misfortunes since its originator and creator left his post as ladies’ imaginative executive of Louis Vuitton toward the finish of 2013. At the time, the Marc Jacobs mark was said to be on track to turn off from parent organization LVMH and finish a first sale of stock that would put it keeping pace with Michael Kors. Amid LVMH’s yearly gathering in April 2014, CEO Bernard Arnault said the Marc Jacobs business was producing a billion dollars a year in retail income, thought to incorporate eminences from its organization with Coty, which makes and appropriates Marc Jacobs scents.

Be that as it may, Marc Jacobs’ combined retail incomes, excluding scent, have more than divided in the previous three-to-four years, dropping from around $650 million to about $300 million, as indicated by a source acquainted with the business. (Industry experts have additionally distributed comparative gauges.) A noteworthy extent — from a quarter to a third — of Marc Jacobs’ retail deals are produced by outlets, where the brand’s dress and extras are sold at a markdown.

The drop in income can be followed to 2015, when LVMH reported its choice to bring together Marc by Marc Jacobs and the primary gathering under a solitary brand umbrella, with British originator Luella Bartley and (adornments master) Katie Hillier — who were enlisted in 2013 to make an invigorated personality and item offering for the organization’s second line — leaving their posts. (Hillier kept on counseling on adornments.)

Beforehand, Marc by Marc Jacobs’ sacks, with sticker prices frequently under $500, enabled the brand to tap the then-developing interest for open extravagance brands, contending with opponents, for example, Longchamp and Michael Kors. Propelled in 2001, Marc by Marc Jacobs was once viewed as one the most beneficial design backups of LVMH, getting a charge out of solid request in the United States and Japan. The line once represented around 80 percent of the brand’s income, as indicated by expert appraisals. Falling the mid-range and top of the line names appeared to have confounded purchasers. The brand unification has brought about store terminations both Stateside and in Europe, including a few on Bleecker Street in New York, the brand’s Bookmarc station on Melrose Place in West Hollywood and a Marc by Marc Jacobs store on London’s South Audley Street.

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Notwithstanding, the conclusion of the London lead shows further issues inside the business that go past the rebuilding. For as far back as two seasons, Jacobs has totally stripped back his once-expound runway appears, exhibiting at the Park Avenue Armory, where he has utilized the exposed wooden floor as the catwalk and school-get together style collapsing seats for seating. The approach was framed in the press as an innovative choice, but on the other hand is a method for cutting expenses.

CEO Eric Marechalle, who joined from Kenzo in July, supplanting Sebastian Suhl, has been entrusted with bringing back some “enjoyment” into the brand, as per a source. Marechalle was the business brains behind the effective patch up of Kenzo, which he kept running close by co-innovative chiefs Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Marc Jacobs Beauty, which is a piece of the LVMH-controlled hatchery Kendo, and its aroma line keep on generating noteworthy incomes.

Clothing Chain H&M is Struggling to Sell off $4 Billion in Extra Merchandise

Notwithstanding a progression of across the board markdowns, apparel bind H&M is attempting to auction $4 billion in additional stock — including months-old Halloween outfits and Christmas sweaters — as changing purchaser tastes and expanding rivalry incur significant injury on the Swedish retailer. The organization, for a considerable length of time a quick design dear, says it’s experiencing difficulty influencing clients to purchase its garments.

Deals are slipping, benefits are down to their most minimal level in 16 years, and stock is far up, H&M parent organization Hennes and Mauritz said Tuesday. Offers of the retailer’s stock fell around 6.8 percent Tuesday, to their least level since 2005.

“The fast change of the form retail area proceeds with,” H&M CEO Karl-Johan Persson said in an announcement. “The beginning of the year has been intense. Feeble deals joined with considerable markdowns had a noteworthy negative effect on brings about the principal quarter.”

A conjunction of components have prompted H&M’s inconveniences, experts say. Boss among them: Millennials are growing up and are more keen on purchasing admirably made garments than in purchasing modest things. There is additionally more rivalry from organizations like Zara, Topshop, Uniqlo and Asos — all of which clients tend to connect with higher-quality garments and better sites, as indicated by Milton Pedraza, CEO of the Luxury Institute, a New York-based statistical surveying firm.

In the latest quarter, H&M said stock rose 7 percent to a record $4 billion. On Tuesday, the organization’s site was advancing “further markdowns up to 70 percent off.” Many things were unmistakably months old: Halloween-themed T-shirts were offering for $3.99, while newborn children’s Santa outfits were reduced to $4.99.

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Abundance stock has tormented various customary retailers as of late, as clients progressively shop on the web and hope to new companies for more one of a kind dress. A few chains, including Macy’s, Kohl’s and Nordstrom, pared back on vacation stock a year ago, planning to abstain from offering profound rebates on remaining stock. The arrangement appeared to work: Retailers posted their best occasion execution in years, and numerous said they didn’t need to depend on colossal markdowns. That, however, wasn’t the case at H&M. As the world’s second-largest clothing retailer (behind Inditex, which owns Zara), analysts say, the company is particularly susceptible to the whims of consumers. H&M’s quarterly sales began falling late last year.

“There is a massive clash between customers’ expectations and what companies are delivering,” said Andreas Inderst, an analyst for the Macquarie Group in London. “This is an industry-wide issue, but for H&M it has become a particularly pronounced problem.”

Company executives, meanwhile, say they’re planning further discounts in the second quarter, as they look to turn around H&M’s business. The company is also preparing to introduce an “off-price marketplace,” called Afound, that will sell discounted items by H&M, as well as other brands.

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